Showing posts with label equipment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label equipment. Show all posts

Wednesday, 14 November 2012

! Reflecting on Gilets

All cats are black cats after midnight
I frequently ride long after sundown, whether it is due to cycle commuting, or long-distance cycling events such as randonneuring. On my most recent ride, I managed to destroy the zip and noted high-usage wear and tear including random unstitching from the only gilet (vest) that I have ever owned that I believe to be suitably visible at night.

I looked both at my LBS and many online stores and it is quite apparent that commercially available gilets, including flurorescent coloured ones are simply not suited for riding in the dark. The bright colours are helpful in low-light conditions e.g. rain, but are of no use after sunset due to a distinct lack of reflective material. In fact, I would say that there is typically only between no and a barely subliminal quantity of reflective material on such garments. I can understand limiting reflective material to thin strips of piping etc for aesthetics on day time gilets that are not fluorescent in colour. However, for fluorescent gilets, it seems insane to stop short of a garment that would otherwise provide greatly increased visibility, from a distance in night-time conditions.

I personally do not regard fluorescent without reflectives as “hi-viz” because after dark and travelling on the road, it is the reflectives that make the difference, not the colour.

Whilst a little heaver due to heavier polyester fabric, as well as the reflective strips, the reflective garment I purchased with my Paris-Brest-Paris entry is simply the only suitable after dark gilet I have ever owned.  Note the volume of reflective strips – similar to a road safety vest, but more windproof and an open sleeve to access the rear pockets of the underlying cycling jersey.



After dark, it looked something like this. Note how brightly the reflective strips show compared with the fluorescent yellow and event the battery powered tail-lights.

Red tail lights and reflective vests spread across western France

In comparison, here is a gilet I received with entry to the Lake Taupo Exteme Enduro last year. This is not to be critical of this event, or this in particular garment. This is typically what is available “off-the-shelf”, as well as for custom event runs. This gilet is made of a lightweight nylon, has a rear pocket – excellent features. Unfortunately, the only reflective is a thin section of piping down either side of the rear of the garment.

20121114_231627

I have subsequently send my PBP gilet for repair (thanks Mum), but if you are riding after dark you are probably best off wearing a road-safety vest like this one (NZD$12.45) (see http://www.stockaid.co.nz/index.html?Action=Commerce.Product&ID=424013):



As for dedicated cycle-wear, after more and more googling, I did come across two garments that appear to be more relective than those I had previous sited.

The Ontrack Reflect Vest (NZD$59 from Chain Reaction Cycles) appears to come close to being ideal, but for me it is a shame there is no vertically orientated reflective material over the back, and only a very thin section of piping across the shoulders. This seems to be a lot of surface area, that could have been more reflective.



The 2XU lightweight reflective vest which looks more promising for reflective quality, and if you can afford the NZD$170 price tag, I’m sure you can afford to pop one in the post for me too (thanks so much!).

Monday, 30 January 2012

My 3-season solo home away from home

 

On my previous post I detailed my 265g portable kitchen. This is my current ultralight shelter/sleep setup for 3-season solo trips and is what I will travel with on the Kiwi Brevet next week. I believe that this set of a equipment is light, without being stupid self-destructing or getting myself into trouble kind of ultralight. For example, the McIII sleeping bag is rated to –2C which should make this camp setup useful for all non-alpine, 3-Season conditions.

 

This setup is based around an incredibly light cuben fibre shelter from Zpacks.com. It is difficult to find weight efficient solo shelters. I haven’t used this the ZPacks shelter enough to judge yet but I may be close to having cracked that issue. It is so light, it can be difficult to trust it not to tear requiring mental recognition of the science of the amount of power this fabric can handle when used for sails in yacht racing. For tramping trips I can leave out the pole and use a trekking pole instead. There is no external loop for tieing the peak of the roof to a tree, or upside down bicycle so a pole is needed for bikepacking journeys. I will be interested to see how this shelter compares to my Huntech Two-man Bivvy which I rate highly, but it is much larger and substantively heavier.

 

 

The titanium pegs are light, but easy to lose. I painted the heads to make them more difficult to lose in the grass. ZPacks.com also offer an option of pre-painted peg heads for a fee.

 

I could probably shave grams from the groundsheet by trimming it a bit. I do find myself using it folded, but all the same I like having it oversized for comfort and use under the stars on a clear night, or in a rock bivvy etc. A lighter cuben fibre groundsheet would be a lot lighter (and more expen$ive ) too. For jaunts into sandfly territory swapping the groundsheet for a ZPacks Hexanet bug shelter could be a great investment for very few additional net-grams. [hint: birthday; christmas :D]

 

I’m still using the same Thermarest Prolite 4 Short mattress that I have for years. It seems current models offer more insulation for less weight but with an emphasis on flash-packing and comfort not a lot of opportunity to save weight. As I favour through-trips and spend more time carrying than camping so comfort for me is making it easy to carry.

 

There are several sleeping bags lighter than the Mc-III but were not stocked by my local retailers. I haven’t gone extreme on the saving of the grams here with the Mc-III is a quality bag rated down to –2C which will meet my 3 season requirements. My scales weighed it in at 758g including the manufacturer supplied Cordura™ compression sack (claimed 680g is presumably sans compression sack).

 

 

tem Brand My scales
Cuben fibre Fly/Tarp ZPacks Hexamid Solo-Plus, including tie lines & stuff bag 111g
Carbon fibre pole ZPacks 30g
8 Pegs Titanium – from Zpacks, I added some paint on the heads 46g
Large Tyvek groundsheet Dupont (“homewrap”) 193g
Sleeping insulation mat Thermarest Prolite 4 (short) 384g
Sleeping bag Sea to Summit McIII 758g
Total   1,522g

 

Adding in my 265g kitchen, I now have a 1.787g solo 3-season ultralight camping setup for use on both tramping and bikepacking trips. This provides me with a complete camp and kitchen setup for approximately half of the weight of most popular tramping backpacks.

Saturday, 28 January 2012

A complete, functional, durable and inexpensive camp kitchen in just 265 grams

Making your pack, or saddlebag lighter is not always about departing with hard earned cash. With a combination of items l already owned I now have what I would consider an ideal, durable yet ultra-light cookset. No individual item cost more than NZD$12.00 although I have owned most it for some years assembled in different and heavier configurations. This setup has neither expensive titanium nor any gimmicky plastic components.

 

It may well be possible to get this to sub-250g. It should be possible to save at least another 10g on a lighter lid - the Milo tin was surprisingly thick and durable.

 

My ultralight, yet fully functional and durable cooking setup:

 

Item Brand My scales
1 litre anodised aluminium billy Old and has no labels 117g
Plastic smiley mug Generic MIC from the Red Shed 30g
Pot lid DIY (from large Milo tin) 30g
Ghetto Beer Can Stove DIY (from two aluminium beer cans) 11g
No6 wire pot stand DIY (some orange paint to prevent losing in grass etc) 13g
Fire-steels Light My Fire 26g
Anodised aluminium spoon Sea to Summit 14g
Knife Victorinox (+ inner tube sheath) 18g + 8g
Total weighed together (2g lighter due rounding) 265g

 

 

The 1 litre billy came with a second billy of soup bowl dimensions that could be stacked above it to provide a fuel efficient lid. I did not find the dimensions of that billy useful, and it made a terrible mug. From the base of a Milo tin, some plastic tubing and some wire came the 30g lid. Amazingly, the rim from the tin lid fits perfectly around the edge of the billy. I think It should be possible to make an equivalent lid for less than 20g if only I could find the right bits… With the lid removed, you can see the mug, pot-stand, ghetto stove and fire steels contained within. With the fire steels I do not have to worry about wet matches, or broken cigarette lighter flints ever again.. yay! To complete the kit, the cutlery. A Sea-to-Summit spoon and a Victorinox steak knife that will easily slice through vegetables, cable-ties or anything else I may need a knife for.

 

All packs together except for the full length cutleryAnd all together it weighs in at just 265g

 

To think I used to carry a very good, but unfortunately heavy MSR Billy set that was 379g without cutlery, cooker, lighting equipment or a mug!! The lid/frypan 135g and pot-lifter 45g made the whole set if carried a whopping 559g!!

Thursday, 26 January 2012

GSI Halulite Minimalist Ultralight Cookset Review

As I look forward to Kiwi Brevet, I have been tweaking and lightening my kit for both Bikepacking and Tramping applications.

Unfortunately while this cookset has some excellent ideas, it didn’t quite reach my expectations.

 

The minimalist set is designed to operate as a billy by being made of cooking grade anodized aluminium, with the addition of a neoprene sleeve and a sipper lid to turn it into a mug. It also comes with a foldable spork (or foon?) and is designed to be able to enclose a small butane burner with a 110g canister as a single tight cooking package.

 

 

The weigh-in according to the manufacturer, and my independent but not certified as calibrated scales:

 

Item Claimed My scales
600ml billy 92g 100g
Sipper lid 42g 44g
Neoprene sleeve 20g 24g
Silicone pot gripper 14g 12g
Spork/Foon 9g 9g
  177g 189g

 

What I like:

  • Single integrated and adaptable package
  • Large mug is good for social cups of tea
  • Neoprene sleeve works well (and also reduces rattling when placed inside other items)
  • Fairly inexpensive
  • The silicone pot gripper is very functional and could be used for other hot items too – e.g. move pot stands or other peoples pots.

What I didn’t like:

  • Because the anodised aluminium stays hotter than the contents, without the sipper lid it is too hot for my lips
  • While the sipper may keep a drink hot for longer, it doesn’t have the same ambience of a cup of billy tea in the outdoors
  • The lid it too heavy (nearly half the weight of the function pot!)
  • Couldn’t bring myself to depend on the reliability of foldable/ and gimmicky spork/foon
  • Not so “ultralight:” – I have a 1 litre billy with handles that weights 117g. This billy is 40% smaller, and with the silicone gripper only saves 5g.

What could be improved:

  • A silicone or plastic ring or sleeve around the rim would address many of the things I don’t like about this set – providing the user kept the flames away from the rim. It would eliminate the need for the sipper lid, neoprene sleeve and pot-gripper which would bring it down toward 100g.
  • More solid cutlery, a straight spoon would suffice.

Bottom-line:

Hard to knock something for a soft issue like ‘ambience’, so if drinking a cup of tea at a campsite with a takeaway coffee cup feeling does not disturb you, and you want something solid and light then this set may work well for you. If not, there are some great ideas in this set to borrow to either customise this kit or another that you may already own.

Friday, 20 January 2012

Get more detail with the NZ Open GPS Project

I might like all maps, but I really love FREE maps!

 

Back in 2009, I wrote how to get free street maps from the NZ Open GPS project loaded into a Garmin Edge 705. As I look to venture into more mountain biking and perhaps even do a little more tramping I have found other maps from the NZ Open GPS Project that provide more detail and as such are far more useful when leaving tarmac.

 

For best results:

  • Build UltraMaps (Free Open GPS NZ Combined mapset) with Mapsource and send to your GPS. Make sure that the ~700Mb gmapsupp.img file is copied to the Garmin folder of your Micro-SD card.
  • Copy the gmapsupp.img file from  “Free Open GPS Autorouting” mapset into the Garmin directory for the internal memory of your GPS
  • When on the road for latest maps and less screen clutter to help read street names disable the “Free Open GPS NZ Combined” mapset in Setup –> Maps
  • When in the mountains or trails enable the “Free Open GPS NZ Combined” mapset in Setup –> Maps

Free Open GPS NZ Autorouting (~38Mb)

The Free Open GPS NZ Autorouting Maps (updated every weekly) are a well known and heavily used mapset. It includes all the NZ roads and are suitable for road navigation from a car, or a road based cycle tour or brevet. You can download the latest image from http://www.nzopengps.org/public/Direct_gmapsupp/ and copy it onto your GPS [instructions]. This mapset is about 30Mb is size.

 

NZAutorouting-ArthursPass

 

Use this mapset if:

  • You have limited storage
  • You do not have Mapsource or Basecamp software
  • Your journey is entirely on the road.

Free NZOGPS_DOC_SRTM (~220Mb)

For mountain biking or tramping, a little more detail may be cleaned from the NZOpenGPS_DOC_SRTM map set (last updated 2010) – this adds Department of Conservation tracks, streams, rivers as well contour lines from the NZ Topomap series, increasing the size to over 200Mb.

 

NZ_DOC_SRTM-ArthursPass

 

This mapset is updated infrequently. Probably best to miss this one.

I would generally recommend that you use either the Free Open GPS NZ Autorouting (above) or UltraMaps (below). But use this mapset if:

  • You are venturing away from the roads and have limited storage capacity on your GPS.
  • You don’t mind some old data and the screen is too cluttered, even after reducing detail when using the “UltraMaps” mapset

 

UltraMaps / Free Open GPS NZ Combined mapset (~700Mb)

 

“UltraMaps” or NZ Open GPS Combined set. Fully integrates the NZ Topo series with the routable street maps. This mapset is very complete at about 700Mb in size and may in some situations provide too much detail for a handheld GPS screen. It is not available prebuilt as a GMAPSUPP.IMG file, so it is more complex to install. You will need to have Garmin’s Mapsource or Basecamp software to build it and transfer it to your GPS.

 

This mapset was a little hard to find, but after delving into the forums of the NZ Open GPS project I came across a post from “Mr Purple” – thankyou sir. When installing it will be worth looking at more recent posts in the same forum to look for newer versions of this mapset.

MrPurple wrote:

LATEST VERSION includes latest changes to zoom levels, typ skin, and a recent road update.
Ive combined all the different ones I've made including Nevs improvements to the typ skin with the offical OS maps and provided an updater as a seperate program to grab any new OS road map you might install. To be clear the OS road updater doesnt update the OS roads, it grabs the OS roads you have installed and copies them into the combined map. You need to update the OS road maps yourself first.
Once you unzip the archive with 7zip you've got an installer with topo/title boundaries/OS roads/residual tracks
Part 1 of 4
Part 2 of 4
Part 3 of 4
Part 4 of 4
OS road updater
If you dont want any of the maps on your device just dont select them when you transfer, or better yet prepare multiple mapsets by renaming the gmapsup.img which you create to make mapsets that you can switch between.

 

NZCombined-ArthursPass

 

This detail is fabulous when in the hills, especially on foot. In urban areas with a small  GPS sized screen it can be cluttered and getting the detail right so you see all the street names you desire can be a challenge.

 

Use this mapset if:

  • You have plenty of storage
  • You have Mapsource or Basecamp software
  • You are spending time in the mountains or trails

 

 

The Ultimate Combination…

As per the “for best results” summary at the beginning of this post, I am now having my cake and eating too. When navigate the cities and towns of New Zealand I am disabling the “Free Open GPS NZ Combined” mapset. There may be other ways to achieve these same means but this is a simple and easy to understand method of achieving this result. Alternatively, if only routing from the “Free Open GPS Autorouting” mapset there may be more pure topomap sets to load which I will investigate over time.

 

I have tested this process on both a Garmin Etrex 30 and a Garmin 705 GPS.

 

For best results:

  • Build UltraMaps (Free Open GPS NZ Combined mapset) with Mapsource and send to your GPS. Make sure that the ~700Mb gmapsupp.img file is copied to the Garmin folder of your Micro-SD card.
  • Copy the gmapsupp.img file from “Free Open GPS Autorouting” mapset into the Garmin directory for the internal memory of your GPS
  • When on the road for latest maps and less screen clutter to help read street names disable the “Free Open GPS NZ Combined” mapset in Setup –> Maps
  • When in the mountains or trails enable the “Free Open GPS NZ Combined” mapset in Setup –> Maps

Thursday, 20 October 2011

First outing: Memory-Map Toughprint Paper

I went on my first tramping trip in a long-time last weekend. One of the things I tried out for the first time was Memory-Map’s Toughprint™ Waterproof paper.

 

Most of my maps, are now on a projection that is no longer used so I used the Memory Map software, and my inkjet printer to print the maps of where I was going, instead of trying to track down the correct map sheet in one of the tramping shops in town. I printed the 40km journey on two sides of the same sheet of Toughprint™ paper.

 

I was dubious, as to whether, regardless of the waterproof paper my run of the mill Brother Inkjet printer could really print waterproof maps. To my surprise, it worked out far better than I ever imagined. Even a deliberate dunking in the Mangatoetoe Stream at the end of the trip has failed to cause ink to run, or the paper to tear. I was quite impressed.

 

When printing your own maps, ensuring the hardcopy that comes out of your printer is at the correct is one of the challenges. The Memory-Map software addresses this, by changing the selection order in that you first select your paper-size and your margin-size before offering you the opportunity to select the area of map that fits those dimensions. When measuring with the ruler on the compass I could distinguish any scale inconsistencies in either the lounge, or out in the hills.

 

Not worried about map destruction, and a smaller size with less unfolding it was certainly far more convenient to keep a copy of the map in my pocket to constantly refer to throughout the weekend - especially in the less than perfect weather.

 

Following the trip, I have noted black ink has run through the paper, in that it now visible from the opposite side – particularly in the blue (sea) areas of the map. This is possibly related to the dunking in the stream.

 

I also think, one needs to be careful at not being too minimalist when printing their own maps. The coverage on two sides of A4, at 1:50,000 is not great, and if inclement weather, or an injury changed route plans it is possible that you may want to travel outside of your self-printed  map sheets. Including escape routes is vital.

 

Ultimately, I think in future I will use a mixture of official map sheets, and self-printed map sheets depending on the nature of the trip and the size requirements of the map sheets.

 

I am without doubt, that an A4 waterproof map in my pocket will be invaluable in critical navigation portions of future backcountry journeys.

Saturday, 16 July 2011

Do Gatorskin tyres have sidewalls made of cheese?

My current favoured tyre choice are Continental Grand Prix 4 Season (700x25c). Due to sourcing and pricing issues I usually buy these online from the UK. I’ve been saving my spare pair to start the Paris Brest Paris brand new so bought a set of Continental Gatorskins, also of the 700x25c sizing. The Gatorskin’s are sold on the puncture proof qualities making them ideal for commuting and winter riding.

This is the second set of Gatorskin tyres I have had very short life from. Previously I convinced myself my experience was an aberration. Now however, I am convinced that the Gatorskin tyres have sidewalls made of cheese. In both cases, I have not had a puncture through the main treadline, but riding at night in winter after rain I have found a unique ability to slice directly the sidewall as I skim past on-road debris whether it be rock or debris.

GatorSliced

So in the space of a week I have replaced my rear tyre twice. Firstly, a loyal and faithful GP4, after over 4000 punctureless kilometres on New Zealand’s chip sealed roads this tyre had been worn through to the canvas, and less than a 100km later a sidewall failure on the replacement Gatorskin from the same company.




This led me to question why the Gatorskins have a good reputation. It would seem the results of a search for “gatorskin puncture resistance” returns a different set of results to “gatorskin sidewall failure” – the later showing that these tyres are indeed, made of a stinky, soft substance known as cheese.

Footnote: Please be aware that the manufacturer states on their website that this tyre is made of Duraskin-anti-cut fabric, and not cheese as I allege. The manufacturer should know more about their product than I.
A durable carbon black mixture, a well regarded puncture protection system and DuraSkin-anti-cut fabric turn the GatorSkin, formely known as Ultra GatorSkin, into a real long distance runner.

Sunday, 19 June 2011

Shimano PD-R540 Pedals and silly plastic bits

Shimano PD-R540 pedals are an entry-level road SPD-SL pedal with a good broad pedalling platform. They are excellent value for money and perform well. I just not sure that the plastic “body cover“ inserts are the best design that Shimano has ever had. Having not kept an eye on the wear of little piece of plastic and riding more than a few miles I’ve just replaced them with a set I bought on a heavily discounted sale. Will keep a closer eye on the plastic body covers this time.

The “SHIMANO” branding was reduced to “S-----O” over time and I had also managed to burr off the outside edges of the area which the plastic body covers insert into. With the miles I am pedalling, I may look at upgrading to 105, or Ultegra pedals that do not use the plastic body covers in the future.

P6190935-mod
Old pedals with worn plastic body covers
P6190936-mod
New pedals with full branding logos visible
P6190938-mod
Old pedals with plastic body covers removed. Showing wear to alloy parts of the pedal.

Saturday, 27 November 2010

Twice Around the ‘Pond’–The Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge Enduro

Often referred to as a pond by cyclists that have been ridden around it many times, Lake Taupo is New Zealand’s largest lake with a surface area of 616 square kilometres. I have previously ridden around ‘the pond’ four times, one lap in each of the past four years. For me, the 2010 Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge featured a stolen bicycle, a brand new Trek and two enjoyable laps of ‘the pond’.

It was a disrupted lead in after my Specialized Roubaix Expert was stolen just 12 days prior to the event. Thankfully AMI resolved the case promptly, albeit at second-hand value and not replacement value of the bicycle. Capital Cycles gladly accepted my “emergency visa”  to top up the insurance and had me going on a new Trek Madone 5.2 quickly. They were also kind enough to loan me the factory wheels while they built some strong and durable Mavic Open Pro’s with a full compliment of spokes and Dura-Ace hubs. I was lucky to work like this done at the last minute immediately before the Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge, New Zealand’s largest cycling event. These wheels are more suited to my sturdy frame and the ultra-distance endurance cycling goals I have over the next twelve months. Capital Cycles finished building the wheels on Thursday morning, so I only had a chance for 10km commute home before travelling up to Taupo the following morning.
Ride Data:
Distance: 315.47km 15,078 Calories
Time: 12h42m50s (elapsed)
12h10m53s (moving)
24.8 km/h (avg)
25.9 km/h (avg moving)
75.5 km/h (max speed)
Elevation: Ascent: 3,512m Descent: 3,516m
Cadence: Avg: 86 rpm Max: 123 rpm
Ride Data: Garmin Connect / RideWithGPS
Location: Taupo, NZ 27 November 2010

On Thursday evening I tried to swap the light and fast but not particularly puncture proof Bontrager tyres that came with the bike. Will be handy tyres next time I ride a shorter race or perhaps a criterium. Unfortunately, while I am usually able to change tyres without the use of tyre levers, this tyre and rim combination was simply too tight for my bare hands. With my tyre levers still in the toolbag on my stolen bicycle, the best of  intentions to be prepared in advance came to nothing and I was buying tyre levers at the event hours before my 1:30am start.


With a stiffer frame on the new Trek compared to the stolen Specialized I opted for 25C instead the “standard” 23C tyres. This allowed me to run the tyres at lower pressure without risking a pinch flat. 95-100 PSI both feels better over chipseal and offers lower rolling resistance than at 115-120 PSI I usually run at with 23C tyres. With the chip-sealed roads in New Zealand I am surprised the use of wider tyres for the many of us over 90kg is not standard practice. You may wish to read the excellent article "Tyre Pressure and Load by Jan Heine” which appeared in Adventure Cyclist in March 2009. Thinner tyres are not always faster.

My replacement Ayup headlamp mounts had not arrived from Australia before I left Wellington (In hindsight they had arrived just seven minutes after I left!). Thankfully my work colleague Phil was able to loan me a mount to use, which I fitted when he arrived at the cabin next door. I matched the Ayup light with a Cateye HL-EL530 headlamp to meet the dual lighting requirements for Audax rides. It also gave me a combination of a rechargable system with long battery life, and an backup system that could run off off-the-shelf batteries. Both have a good run times and are bright enough to be used alone for night-time road riding. The EL530 has a small concentrated bright spot, with plenty of less lit, but acceptably right area around it.to see all you need.  The Ayup lights are smaller, yet brighter and offering a far broader and consistent coverage area. The Ayup system offers better lighting, but the EL530 runs on four easily purchasable AA batteries.

With the bicycle complete, I had enough time for about two hours sleep before it was time to get up and head down to the 1:30am start. Tiredness was not a problem for me when I woke. I was excited to get out for a good long ride and see how my nice new Trek would perform. On arrival at Redoubt St, there was a lot of broken glass about but thankfully I did not hear any tyres puncture from it.

I started near the back of a field of about eighty of riders. At 1:33am we were off. To my astonishment as we rode through the initial 16km of predominantly ascending to the highest point I was still holding comfortably in the main bunch. If you are a regular reader my web-log you will be aware that I am quite used to being dropped on climbs. Whether it was training, the enforced 12 day break or the new bicycle I was adamant my new Trek was a “Rocket Ship”’!



The “Rocket Ship” verdict was confirmed through the night as I continued to stick with the bunch up, up, up and over Waihaha, Kuratau and Waihi Hills. I tried to jump the bunch to give myself time to get my brevet card signed at the Turangi Truck Stop. Ultimately, this effort was futile. Even a stop of just a few minutes, is a lot of time on the road. At 30km/h it was a matter of losing 500m per minute to the bunch. With no-one else stopping here I was obviously the only one in this bunch riding as a 300km Brevet to qualify for the Paris-Brest-Paris in August.

The remaining ride through to Taupo was mostly in solitary, although there were a few moments with two other riders. Unfortunately were unable to find speeds that we were able to ride together at. Once through to the Caltex in Taupo in a handy 5h45m. I had a short break, getting my brevet card signed, putting on a clean shirt and swapping two empties for two more bottles of perpetuem. I put some sun block on too, but by the finish it was obvious that “some” was not even nearly enough! Thanks Mum and Dad for meeting me at the controls with my pre-made drink bottles and things.

I passed through Taupo to start my second lap at about 7:30am and instantly was inundated with one lap riders with fresh legs riding straight past me. It was almost impossible to hold the bunches because someone with fresh legs would undoubtedly lead a new wave of attacks at the slightest sign of an incline. With one lap already in my legs I was feeling much more in the mood to ride in a consistent speed and effort zone than for following attacks and accelerations.

The hills sure seemed harder during the second lap. Was it just from having more work in my legs? Had the darkness flattened them during the night? Does heat make them this much harder?

The first 3/4 of the second lap was a procession of riders attacking each other and passing me. After the stopping at Turangi Truckstop for the second-time to get the third row of my brevet card signed there was a dramatic difference in the one lap riders I was riding with. With the stronger one-lappers well through now I was now leading packs, passing one-lappers with cramp or sleeping in any piece of shade they could find. This was surely the hottest day of the year? By Hatepe, I was cooking myself and a brief stop in the shade before riding up the hill past numerous other riders, some of whom needed to use the ‘two-foot’ gear. I am convinced that the key issue with Hatepe hill is not only that it occurs late in the ride, but that there is little shade, maximum sunshine and it can be stinking hot riding up here. At in 140km (or 300km) already ridden in the legs, and this non-mountainous hill suddenly feels like a wall.

Once over Hatepe I focussed on efficiency, ensuring to keep my head down and arms narrow downhill ensuring good speed without needing to pedal. This gave me excellent recovery and I was back to full power on the pedals to cross the finish line in 12h42m looking fresh, strong and ready for another lap!

More distance is certainly coming up. This ride counted as the 300km qualifier for the Paris-Brest-Paris. I now need to focus on the 400km and 600km qualifiers and then onto the 1200km epic in France in August 2011.